The best taco truck you’ll ever go to is the first one you see as you travel down Nolensville Road.
It’s that easy. They’re all terrific.
A few truisms about taco trucks. First, addresses can be hard to spot. They’re best found with landmarks. My go-to, El Dollar Numero Dos, is next to a convenience store (which does have an easily found address, 3508 Nolensville Road) with a Marathon gas sign. If you’re coming in to town, it’s about a mile or so past the railroad trestle on the right.
Second, it’s good to bring cash. El Dollar doesn’t take plastic.
Third, the reason they’re all so good is that they rely on repeat business. Even though “truck” is the operational word, many of them never actually move. They find a fixed location and stay put. Since it’s ridiculously easy to have an ample meal for less than $8, the trucks have to attract a lot of returning customers to make a profit.
True Mexican tacos are simple affairs. Start with a corn tortilla, sometimes homemade. Top with savory meat. My favorites are pastor (spicy pork), beef cheek or chorizo, a spicy Mexican sausage. Shower with white onion and cilantro. Squeeze a lime wedge over all. Perfection. Mulitas are a cousin to the taco, with two tortillas sandwiching a savory meat and melted cheese. Definitely, a two-napkin item. And tortas are Mexican sandwiches served on bolillo bread, a torpedo-shaped roll. Fillings vary from simple ham and cheese to more exotic combinations. One torta will easily feed two and the bread, usually griddled, makes the sandwich.
Everything at El Dollar is served with a complementary side of pickled carrots and griddled onions and jalapenos – the perfect counterpoint to the rich, unctuous meat.
Lately, though, I’ve found a new love at El Dollar that I can’t get enough of – the quesabirria. Birria is a rich beef, chili pepper and cumin stew that comes from the state of Jalisco. It’s stuffed into a flour tortilla with an ample amount of cheese, dragged through the birria stewing liquid that stains the tortilla red and then griddled to crispy goodness. Some of the ultra-flavorful liquid is served on the side for dipping. The shatteringly crisp tortilla contrasted with the tender meat and oozing cheese just comes together as the perfect bite.
Everything at El Dollar is made to order so expect about a 10-minute wait before you get your food. That’s just enough time to duck next door to the convenience store and take a look at a variety of Mexican and South American products. The refrigerated case boasts a good selection of fresh cheeses, including ones from Guatemala, Honduras and El Salvador. You can also pick up a package of what’s widely accepted as the best corn tortilla – El Milagro. A bounty of South of the Border snacks are also offered. And if you’re looking for a sweet ending to your meal you can choose from a variety of Mexican pastries from a local bakery.
Back at the truck, you can find a couple of picnic tables to dine on site. And just to remind you that there are real hard-working people behind the small take-out window at El Dollar, the Spanish words on the truck’s door translate to: “My God, take care of my business, my work and my clients.”
Catherine Mayhew is a former restaurant critic for The Charlotte Observer, cookbook author and master BBQ judge. Follow her @thesouthinmymouth on Instagram to see what she’s eating and email her at [email protected] with suggestions on your favorite restaurants and food trucks.